What Causes Orange Leaves on Boxwoods?

If your boxwood shrub's (Buxus spp.) dense, glossy-green leaves -- the ones that make different kinds of boxwood such go-to choices for shady spots in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8 -- decide it's time for a color change, don't despair. Boxwood leaves turns orange for two reasons, one seasonal and one disease-related, but the disturbing switch is limited to a handful of varieties.

Winter Burn

The Problem

Winter burn, or bronzing, commonly afflicts littleleaf and Japanese boxwoods (Buxus microphylla, Buxus microphylla var. japonica), hardy in USDA zones 6 through 9. The condition strikes plants receiving too much winter sun, especially when they're unprotected from frost or strong wind. The leaves may become orange, yellow or reddish brown.

Prevention

Prevent winter burn with these methods:

• Plant Japanese and littleleaf boxwood where taller evergreens provide winter shade and protection. 
  
• Water regularly, beginning when the new leaves emerge in spring and continuing until the ground freezes in winter. Boxwood needs 1 inch of rain or supplemental water per week. That's about 6 gallons per 10 square feet of soil.
• Insulate the root zone in fall with a moisture-retaining, 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch such as compost or shredded hardwood bark.
  
• Drape boxwood in burlap or bed sheets when frost or strong wind is likely. Remove the protection after the threat is gone.
• Replace burn-susceptible boxwood with resistant hybrid cultivars, such as 'Green Velvet' (Buxus 'Green Velvet'), hardy in USDA zones 5 through 8.
  

The good news is winter burn lasts only until the emergence of normal green leaves in spring.

Volutella Canker

Volutella canker targets the dwarf English boxwood cultivar 'Suffruticosa' (Buxus sempervirens 'Suffruticosa'), hardy in USDA zones 5 through 8. Dying leaves change to orange, then tan and finally straw-yellow. The disease is most active in warm, wet weather. Prune infected branches with by-pass pruners, and rake up dead leaves from around the plants. Disinfect the pruners in rubbing alcohol between cuts and dispose of the debris in sealed plastic bags.

To prevent infection, thin the outer canopy by about 10 percent each year in early winter. By opening the interior to light and air, thinning discourages infection.

Leaves Are Turning Yellow On My Boxwood

Many landscapers and home gardeners reach for boxwood (Buxus spp.) In most cases, this can be avoided with proper care. This will prevent the spread of diseases. Then, remove all the damaged branches. Damaged or dying roots are not able to absorb nutrients, and as a result, the leaves start to die, turning yellow and brown. Avoid depressions where water tends to collect. Strong, healthy plants rarely get sick, so water deeply during periods of drought -- water stress can also cause yellowing leaves -- but water at the soil level and not from overhead. Sometimes, yellow leaves are not a symptom of a problem at all. The boxwood leafminer is the most serious pest of boxwoods, according to Clemson Cooperative Extension. A severe infestation can defoliate and kill a boxwood. Apply the insecticide in mid-April or early May when you see the tiny adult flies. Apply on a calm, warm day, thoroughly coating the tops and bottoms of the leaves.